一、工艺说明(背景介绍)
香云纱的制作是一项复杂的传统工艺。丝绸的独特底色源于薯莨,这是一种产自深山的中药植物,我们提取其天然染液。面料底坯选用 100% 桑蚕丝,经过至少 28 次薯莨液浸泡和 28 次日光暴晒,才能形成这种棕红色半成品,俗称"红云纱"。过泥所用的河泥是顺德当地特有的,富含铁离子和大量微生物群,是不可替代的关键材料。薯莨染液中的单宁酸与河泥中的铁离子发生化学反应,使颜色更牢固地固着在丝绸纤维内侧,形成香云纱正面的乌黑光泽,并赋予丝绸以下特性:防虫防蛀、防皮肤病、抑菌抗过敏。经过这一天然矿物与植物染色的升级处理,香云纱比普通丝绸更加经久耐用,是丝绸的"软黄金"。
The creation of Gambiered Canton Silk (Xiangyunsha) is a complex, traditional craft. The unique base color of the silk comes from the Gambier root (Shuliang), a medicinal plant found deep in the mountains from which we extract a natural dye. The base fabric is 100% silkworm silk, soaked in the gambier dye at least 28 times and sun-dried 28 times to achieve this reddish-brown semi-finished fabric (often called "Hongyunsha"). The river mud used for the "mud-coating" (Guo Wu) process is unique to the Shunde area, rich in ferric ions and large colonies of microorganisms, making it an irreplaceable key material. The tannic acid in the gambier dye reacts chemically with the iron ions in the mud, firmly bonding the natural color and earth to the silk fibers. This reaction creates the fabric's distinct black luster and provides the silk with enhanced properties: anti-moth and mildew resistance, anti-dermatitis effects, antibacterial, and hypoallergenic qualities. Through this natural mineral and plant dyeing upgrade, Xiangyunsha is significantly more durable than conventional silk, earning it the title of "soft gold" among silks.
二、操作步骤(互动流程)
刷河泥的核心,是将薯莨染半成品与顺德河泥在恰当的条件下结合。整道工序简洁而讲究,可分为涂抹、静置、洗净三个动作——看似朴素,却决定了香云纱正反面"黑褐双色"的最终命运。
The essence of mud-coating lies in combining the gambier-dyed semi-finished fabric with Shunde river mud under the right conditions. Though deceptively simple, the procedure—application, resting, and rinsing—determines the fabric's final dual-tone of black and brown.
涂抹河泥
请将这块薯莨染半成品,在"阳面"(即颜色更深、晒莨时朝向太阳的一面)均匀涂抹一层调好的糊状河泥。
Please evenly apply a layer of the prepared river mud paste onto the "Yang Mian" (the sun-facing side during drying, which is the darker side) of this gambier-dyed semi-finished fabric.
静置反应
将面料折叠起来,静置在阴凉避光处约 45 分钟,使薯莨单宁酸与河泥铁离子充分发生化学反应。
Next, fold the fabric and allow it to sit in a cool, shaded area, away from direct sunlight, for approximately 45 minutes to ensure a full chemical reaction.
洗净河泥
用清水彻底洗净面料表面的河泥。经过这一"过乌"工序,您便得到了具有独特光泽和手感的香云纱。
Afterward, thoroughly rinse the mud from the fabric's surface with clean water. This critical step, known as Guo Wu (mud-coating), yields the distinct, dark Gambiered Canton Silk (Xiangyunsha).
薯莨染半成品(28 次浸染):所谓"红云纱",是面料底坯选用 100% 桑蚕丝,经过至少 28 次薯莨液浸泡与 28 次日光暴晒后形成的棕红色半成品。它正是"过泥"工序的前提——没有这数十次植物染色的打底,便无法在河泥的矿物反应中成就乌金之色。
小结:一把河泥,点化乌金
刷河泥(过乌)是香云纱从"红云纱"走向真正"香云纱"的临门一脚。顺德河泥中不可替代的铁离子,与薯莨单宁在 45 分钟的静默反应里完成一次自然的点化,既固色,又赋予面料防虫、抑菌的天然禀赋。
一把河泥,让丝绸成为"软黄金"——这便是自然与匠心的最后一击。

